Bahia Cumberland (San juan Bautista) - Robinson Crusoe Island, Chile

I was completely blown away by Robinson Crusoe Island, it wasn't just because it was an anchorage after 30 days at sea, in fact it was a combination of the warm and friendly people, a beautiful natural setting, and a good anchorage in all but the worst northerly weather.

I arrived from Rikitea (French Polynesia) and was able to check in and out here without any issues.

We received a very warm welcome from the Armada on RC Island. Whilst it is not technically a full port of entry, it is very much a port of entry in reality. The entry process is pretty much like everywhere else in Chile, they are able to stamp your passports, issue Zarpes, etc even though there is no PDI or customs presence there. In theory, you should submit this form: https://djsimple.sag.gob.cl/ I did this 36 hours before arrival, then emailed: contacto.valparaiso@sag.gob.cl who are responsible for San Fernandez as per the SAG contact website with the details of my submission. When I arrived the SAG official just had me fill out a new one anyway, I'd suggest you do it as above since it's a simple form and that way you compliant with everything you should be. About 5 miles out I called the Armada, they were exceptionally polite and welcoming, and again once I entered the bay to ask if they had any preferences where I anchored. They suggested south east end of the bay. It's deep there, and a lee shore in a westerly, but holding is good over sand. Probably better than the middle of the bay in southerly as the swell wraps around quite a bit. After I settled, I visited the Armada office on the hill, handed over the boat papers and received the arrival paperwork. The next day the Navy came out to visit the boat along with the SAG, who checked the pantry and issued me with SAG paperwork. The navy also suggested I moved to a better spot, when I explained that my max depth was about 25M, they showed me a mooring to use, which was fantastic and in the middle of the bay, seemed to be in good condition, and was much more sheltered. Further exploration with the dinghy saw about 7-10M over what appears to be sand inland from this spot pretty much right in the middle of the bay behind some mooring balls, and outside of where the main fishing fleet are moored - I would have anchored there eventually if the mooring wasn't available. The SAG officer noticed some garlic I'd forgotten about and asked me to bring it over in a bag for proper disposal when I was next ashore. I popped back over to the armada later that day to pay the entry fee (Approx 12USD for 12M monohull) and got my passport stamped for 90 days. I also visited the SAG office to drop off the the produce. Throughout this everybody was super helpful and cordial - I speak basic Spanish (simple tenses, random grammar) and between my Spanish, their English and some gesturing there were no issues figuring out what was needed. Getting the exit Zarpe took about 10 minutes, although they were expecting me as I'd been back and forth quite regularly to ask weather related questions and get some more info Puerto Montt, and the entrance to Chanal Chacao. I'd suggest you check the day before in case it does take longer - they are all super friendly and more than happy to try to help you out. Overall the island was a haven of joy for me after a month without seeing so much as a cargo ship from Gambier, everybody was incredibly friendly, the island is beautiful, CONAF maintain a lot of trails and national park space here, there are four or so fairly easy hikes up to lookouts and beauty spots, if you want to go further you will need to hire a guide or go as part of a group. Water is available on the dock but I didn't need any, I'm told fuel is available too, but again didn't need any. There are a bunch of small grocery stores that sell staples, at least one place that sells fresh produce, a bunch of cafes, gift shops etc. etc. Also numerous dive outfits if you need tanks filled or want to explore under water. If you need money changed, talk to Ramon in restaurant Petit (just down from the infirmary) who will exchange US dollars in good condition for Pesos. Most places accept cards, but not the Armada (Who will issue you with an invoice which can be paid on the mainland) or CONAF (8000CLP for a 5 day pass per person) German runs the cafe/dive shop just opposite the dock and owns a wooden whale boat which he sailed from the island to Valdivia and back, if you need anything boat related I'm pretty sure he'll know who to speak to or how to get it, but thankfully we didn't have any boat drama this trip. I only stayed in Cumberland bay, however I'm told Bahia Tierra Blanca is good in strong northerlies and has a sandy bottom with good depths for a sailboat although no first hand information for here.

Ashore, most of the island is a national park, and you can hike up to various viewpoints after you obtain a permit from the CONANP office, and be sure to check in and out for each hike. Like most places in Chile, most of the park is off limits without a guide, which I frankly find a bit frustrating, but thankfully there are 4 or 5 shorter hikes here which can be done unsupervised.

I was first directed to the east end of the bay, out of the mooring field, this is deep, and i wasn't really that thrilled by the location as there was not much shelter from the north western wind or swell which was running. The gusts were quite severe too.

The next day, as weather was getting worse, the armada directed me in the end to a mooring ball in the middle of the bay which was much better, although when the wind switched to the south east, it was a bit less comfortable, but otherwise felt very secure.

Be sure to check in with the Armada when you are a few miles out, they were very helpful the whole time I was here.